Other Stuff You'll Need...

Once you've got your collection of notions and tools that you'll need let's focus on the next shopping trip, the fabric!

• The primary fabric: Since we're making an Imperial Officer's tunic, it'd probably be smart to take a look at was was used for the original Star Wars movies. Because it was the 70's polyester gabardine was the fabric of choice. Polyester is essentially spun plastic, making it a very hot fabric to wear. The weave, gabardine, is a fairly common one that you will see many suits and jackets made out of. Personally I would rather not subject myself to a polyester death tunic during a convention, however, for those more budget challenged this might be the most logical option for you. Go look for a fabric with a decent weight, the right color and something within your price range... however if you're going to spend a lot of money on this project I HIGHLY HIGHLY stress this is the time to spend the big bucks. The better quality the fabric, the more comfortable you will be and the better the tunic will look. I would personally go with a medium weight wool. There's a good selection at www.trimfabric.com h. The merits of wool are many, despite what you might think, you don't get all hot a sweaty in it unless you're stalking some hottie or running from the cops. It's amazing stuff to sew and surprisingly forgiving if you make a mistake.
• The lining: You might think, since no one is going to see this why should I line my tunic? It's important for several reasons, first because it helps the jacket hang properly, second because it makes the insides slick making it easier to get on, and third because it covers all the hand stitching you'll be doing and prevents snagging and wearing of the delicate bits helping your tunic last. When you're at the fabric store don't get the thinnest lining you can find, we want something with a little substance, so go for the weightier stuff.
• Interfacing: This will be the most important and the trickiest for you to find. We'll need a couple of very specific specialty items that you'll need to order online unless you live near a really awesome fabric store, then I would like an apartment listing in your area so that I can move in. For everyone else, you can get what you need at Sew True.
  
• Hymo cloth: this is a very stiff woven interfacing that is used almost exclusivly in the shoulders of suits. It helps get that nice smooth shoulder that makes you look all the more intimidating.
  
• Heavy Interfacing: Make sure to get a very heavy woven interfacing for the collar and several other areas of the suit.
• Medium Interfacing: Again, make sure to get woven interfacing.
• Light Woven Interfacing
• Sleeve Head: These are thin strips of fleecy fabric that is used to shape the sleeve cap. Done right it looks REALLY good and can set apart any costume from the rest.

After you've gotten all your fabric you'll need to get matching thread. Investing in the more expensive thread will result in less thread breakage and less frustration from you. Silk or cotton thread is preferable to the Coats & Clark thread that is cotton covered polyester thread.

So you've got your fabric, lining, interfacing and thread. The next post will focus on how to use those tools of yours and get you warmed up to start making a pattern.

Tools of the Trade

Some of these may be obvious, but I like to be thorough.

The Basics:

• Sewing Machine: A basic machine is all you need for this one. No decorative stitches or serging will be needed, we won't even be doing buttonholes. However, you want to make sure the one you have is ready for the job. Here is a great site for information on cleaning an older machine, and here is one for repair and maintenance for you do-it-yourselfers. That last link is actually an excellent one for anything sewing related. Stop and take a look around there while you have a chance.
• Iron & Company: In addition to an iron that is capable of producing massive amounts of steam, you'll want a few other items as well. Primarily a press cloth (I use a clean piece of muslin, works great for me. You can buy commercial versions that are cheesecloth as well), an assortment of pressing aids such as a tailors ham, seam roll, pants board(kind of a mini ironing board) and your scuba gear. That last one is only if you are into extreme ironing. Make sure the plate of your iron is clean with no gunk on it. Most irons also have a way to clean the mineral deposits left from the water that has been steamed as well. I suggest running that a couple of times. Oh, and toss the ironing board cover into the wash and get that nice and clean too. Since ideally we will be working with wool get a spray bottle to wet down the fabric with water when we need to.
• Scissors: Make sure you've got nice sharp scissors. There are plenty of different types, but no pinking shears! We need a straight edge on all our cuts. Ginghers have traditionally been a very solid brand. However I currently use a pair of spring loaded Fiskars. Get a separate pair of teeny tiny ones for cutting threads too.
• Pincushion: These are fun to get. There are all types of pincushions, magnetic ones for those (like me) who tend to get pins everywhere and hate getting them lodged in your heel, cushions shaped like little dress forms, the classic tomato with emery strawberry, tiny cushions you can slip on you finger or wrist to keep the pins handy, you could probably even use a voodoo doll as a pincushion which would be great multitasking.
• Chalk: Instead of pinning paper patterns to fabric (which can cause inaccuracy with your cuts) we'll be tracing the pattern directly to the fabric. There are multiple forms of chalk that you can use, I have a holder that has sticks of white or pretty colored chalk with a fine point. Go to the fabric store and choose whatever strikes your fancy.
• Pins: Make sure you've got plenty of straight pins. With this project you don't need any fancy type of pin, keep in mind that pins with the glass or plastic heads can be a pain when trying to iron, but a blessing when removing pins or when going through several layers of thick fabric. Most of the time we'll just be using basting in place of the pins, and you're welcome to do so for every time you need to hold two pieces of fabric together, but I like to change it up some.
• Needles: Make sure you've got a variety of hand sewing needles, you can usually get a little sampler pack for a decent price. As for machine needles, stock up on universal needles, make sure they will work with your brand of machine. I'll be focusing an entire post to needles and thread shortly, so you might want to hold off until you know exactly what you need.
• A Thimble: Trust me, your fingers will thank you for it.
• Dress Form: If you are all by yourself, do not trust the opinion of others or are extremely anal this is VITAL. Even if none of the above applies I still highly recommend getting one. There are several ways to go out this, for the cheap, a duct tape dummy is an excellent option. The only downside is you can't pin things to them very well, this goes for the hard plastic forms too. Preferably get one of the soft cushy ones that have a slip cover you sew to fit your form exactly, I don't know what I would do without mine.

Pattern Drafting:

More detailed information will be posted later, until then here are some of the supplies we will need.

• Paper: This is for drafting the patterns on. Some use newsprint, others tracing paper or they purchase expensive pattern paper. I had a professor that made us all buy exam table paper, you know stuff the doctor makes you sit on when you go in for a physical? It's cheap, slightly transparent, strong (it's gotta survive you sitting on it, right?) and comes in long rolls. Once you start making patterns with this stuff you don't go back to anything else.
• Drawing Utensils: Pencil, marker, gel pen etc... use whatever you like. I find drawing in either a fine felt tipped pen or a gel pen works best. Pencil is great until you need to trace the pattern onto another piece of paper, it's not very easy to see.
• Rules: Yardstick, shorter ruler, flexible curve and a French curve are needed.
• Removable Tape: 3m makes this. It's almost like regular tape except you can use a piece over and over as it doesn't pull apart the paper when you peel it off.
• Tape Measure: You will need it to measure yourself, do not do this part on your own. If you know of no one else that can do this for you find a tailor that can. I cannot stress this: DO NOT MEASURE YOURSELF!!!!!!

And Finally...

• I like to sew with the tv on, or something to keep my thoughts from going overboard while I sew. This would be a perfect time to watch/listen to all three Lord of the Rings movie commentary that you've been meaning to one of these days. Even better, watch Star Wars since we'll be working on a Star Wars costume. Nothing like the movies to inspire you're sewing.
  

Know What You're Getting Into...

This will not be an easy project. Primarily because there will be extensive tailoring that will be needed, and tailoring is anything but easy. If you're not willing to become very very familiar with a seam ripper, or ask your grandmother (aka, the best seamstress you know) to give you a hand when the going gets tough, then you may not want to start a project like this. However, if the words basting, hand sewing, tedious and long hours does not immediately strike fear into the very core of your being you're either insane or a die hard costumer that might survive to the end of this project. There will be MASSIVE amounts of hand sewing so do not be surprised when the sewing machine is not used for much.

I'll be breaking everything up into manageable posts. A post for each section. I'll attempt to explain why you need something or the reason for using a specific technique, and I'll provide links as well. Hopefully I can make this whole process as painless as possible and something a relatively new sewer can attempt.

The next couple of posts will include details on basic supplies you need to do the job, materials and the notions you will need. I'll also include a refresher on certain stitches etc... so when I use certain terminology you'll all know what I am talking about.

Ready?

And Sew it Begins...

Today I will start my series on sewing. I have had a number of people ask me how do you sew this, or how did you make that. As I am VERY particular about sewing I thought something where I can receive feedback from others might be the best way for me to instruct them on a specific project. So that is what I shall do. Feel free to ask questions if something needs clarification. Post links to your progress and I'd be more than happy to comment and give advice. Even feel free to argue with me (politely please) and I will happily put you in your place ;-)

And the first project, by popular request will be from Star Wars. The Imperial Officer's Uniform.